Are aluminium windows now vintage?
Strap yourself in, we are going for a bit of a walk up the Bullones valley and take a few detours.
But first a sign. It says ‘Attention crossing respect the signage’. We shall.
Across the way is a place to picnic and what looks like a small bridge over nothing, going nowhere.
We are entering a hamlet. To our left is one of those grand two-and-a-half storied houses whose time has passed and is now being allowed to slowly fade.
On the other side is the Salinas de Armalla. David sums it up for us. ‘Saltworks of ancient origin (the name is Arabic, although they appear to have been in use during Roman times), yet surprisingly well-preserved. Strategically located in the Bullones River valley, the mill, the granary, and the administrator's house are still standing. A truly unique and fascinating place.’
A little beyond it is bar, restaurant and Casa Rural. https://casaruralsalinas.com/ Yesterday Jaime said of it ‘We were just passing through, we only had a drink there this time, but we'll be back. The service was fantastic, the menu was well-stocked, and everything we tried was fantastic.’
A week ago Laura felt ‘Spectacular. We only ate there, we didn't stay overnight, but the service was impeccable and the food fantastic. Beautifully prepared, homemade, and with exquisite desserts. There's so much love in that kitchen. You wouldn't expect it when you walk by. Definitely highly recommended. If we were to return to the area, we would definitely eat here again. ‘
We are taking our first detour to see the Casa Fuerte de Vega de Arias. Jose observes the ruin and despairs. ‘It's a shame to see this building in ruins. I worked on this estate over 30 years ago and was lucky enough to see it inhabited by the estate's caretaker. It was a beautiful house; back then, it seemed like a castle to me, with a majestic entrance. Entering the courtyard, you could see the grand house, and the interior was old and beautiful, with areas for animals, barns, and so on. Like I said, it's a shame to see it like this; it makes me nostalgic.’
Back up the valley and then off the CM-210 towards Valhermoso. Today it has a scattering of houses and 15 inhabitants. Once it didn’t. Over to you GSH Dictionary and the mid nineteenth century.
‘VALLEHERMOSO: situated on a hill, with good ventilation and a healthy climate . It has 65 houses ; the town hall with a jail; a primary school, attended by 20 students, run by a teacher paid from public funds and also receiving a small stipend from the students; there is a spring of good water; a parish church (The Assumption of Our Lady), mother church of Teroleja. The terrain is rugged and of medium quality; it includes good stretches of woodland. Roads : local roads. Mail : received and dispatched in Molina. Products. : cereals, legumes, firewood and good pastures, which support sheep, goats and cattle; there is hunting of deer, roe deer, hares and partridges. Population : 43 households, 169 inhabitants. ‘
We came here to go to the Big House. Casa Grande de Valhermoso. https://cultura.castillalamancha.es/patrimonio/catalogo-patrimonio-cultural/casa-grande-de-valhermoso The house was constructed in 1754. The linked website called it ‘It is a building of a sober and austere appearance ‘ It is two stories high and have the rooms you may expect in such a place. It is not open to the public. Wiki notes ‘it has elements (aluminum windows, PVC blinds and some others) that are not in keeping with the architectural style of the building.’
We will return to the road and head north.
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