The man who mistook a hill for an onion

 It is a day where we seem to be climbing and we do, but only 50m, and pass nothing, well almost nothing - but more of that later.


We are in Toledo Province, which has 775,000 people living in it. This makes it the 22nd most populous province of Spain and accounts for 1.5% of the total population.  But first, a restaurant. 



The Restaurante la Serrana is temporarily closed, according to Google. The images are from May 2024 and it seems up and running then.  It is woman owned and LGBTQI+ friendly and a year ago Mila said ‘What a nice place on the road! We went in for coffee and we were pleasantly surprised with how clean and tidy everything was. Can't give a full 5 stars because we didn't stay to eat. However, the staff was attentive and the place was very inviting, especially because of the cleanliness. That's not always easy to find when you are out on the road. We will go back to eat someday soon! ‘  Manuel added around the same time ‘I stumbled upon it by chance for breakfast. I was served by Viviana, charming, friendly, and attentive. I intended to have lunch on my return, but I didn't make it before 4:00 PM, which is when the kitchen closes. I'm yet to try the €12 menu… Highly recommended.



Back to Toledo.  Of the top 20 municipalities. Toledo has 87,000 inhabitants, Talavera 84,000.  We then drop to a couple in the 30k range and almost half have 10k or less.



Usually I would skip lightly over ‘culture’ - let each town claim its own however I then saw the Onion Flag Dance.  This is a translation. It is disappointly the flag dance of the town of Cebolla - which comes from the Arabic yevayla - meaning small hill or mound.




The smallest municipality is Illan de Vacas.  Eight people live in the 9.15 square kilometers. It appears to have peaked in 1857 - with 248 people and has been around 100 till the 1960s. Don’t be too mournful, only one person lived there in 2011.




That’s it for today. Toledo beckons and why not.



















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