Saint James and the early closing kitchen
If we were actually about to do this walk I feel we would just spend it slack jawed and staring in wonder at the glorious views we are about to see. No matter. On we fictionally trudge.
We deserve a rest and the Restaurante La Ermitana is one of those places which exists because it has the most splendid view of Toledo. https://laermitana.es/ Google reports an average spend of 40-70 euros and the website is lush and so let us indulge. 1742 reviews people found it meet that they should leave their thoughts. Nine hours ago santiago declared ‘We made a reservation for dinner on Sunday and were given a 10:00 PM time slot. We called to see if we could move it to 9:00 PM, but they said no (we figured they were fully booked and couldn't change tables, which is understandable). To our surprise, when we arrived the restaurant was empty; there were only two other tables. We don't understand why we couldn't move the time. But after we sat down, they came and told us the kitchen closed at 10:30 PM, rushing us. It was somewhat redeemed by the fact that the food was delicious and the views were spectacular.'
Back to History. The place fell to the Arab Armies in 711 or so. This does not seem to have stopped the Bishops from doing their thing. As we shall see, diverse mosques and the like were built; rulers were revolting and ordinary people did ordinary things until Alfonso VI brought up his armies to see what would happen. Not as much as he had hoped so the next year he besieged the place. New forces came up the following year and Toledo surrendered.
In an act which really seems off brand for Medieval Christianity - I know, there will be below the line comments, I don’t see the gentle side like you do - instead of just pillaging the place the libraries were kept in tact and a translation centre was set up.
We will pass a back way into Toledo, the Puente de Alcantara. S vivekananda summed it up ten months ago. ‘Impressive Roman arch bridge in Toledo, Spain, spanning the River Tagus. Built by the Romans after they founded the city. In the Middle Ages it was one of the few entrances for pilgrims into the city. It currently has two arches. Great place for photography of bridge, river and city. Level terrain, easy walking. Picturesque place. Must see place ‘
Tomorrow we approach the gates of the doom.
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