The changing caliph and an epoch of grandeur

 Many things have changed in my lifetime.  Understanding of autism were dramatically different between when I started teaching and when it ended. Smugglers have turned from honest citizens fighting ’the man’ to proto-capitalism and Islam has happened.

I am trying to think of the images of Islam that percolated through my childhood. Obviously the Crusaders were the good guys but the locals were not really baddies and could be Saladin like chivalrous opponents.   We did nothing but Christianity in RE.  Arabs were Arabs, very rich but not really Islamic. Then the Iranian Revolution happened.

All the above may not represent the attempts of teachers and news readers to bring the wider world to my suburban teens but there you are. That Spain had an Islamic past was unknown.  This has changed. Of course people with views have had views.  The Term Reconquest does seem a bit of a stretch to cover 700 years of History, whereas pretending the History of Andalucia was a veritable paradise on earth does not quiet reach the mark.  However, it was, by the standards of the day, remarkable.

The arrival of the armies of the Conquest often were not met with resistance. This was not the case at Cordoba.  The locals resisted and the town was stormed.  The new Umayyad commanders set themselves up, making the city the provincial capital of the Damascus Caliphate in 716. The Roman and Visigoth cities wee walled and, over time 21 suburban districts developed.

The Caliphate did not retain cohesion. The Abbasids took power but surviving Umayyad Abd ar-Rahman crossed to Spain and declared himself Emir.   In 756 Rahman I beat the remnants of the old regime outside of Cordoba and established it as his capital.  In 785 Rahman I ordered the building of the Great Mosque.

The 9th century did not start well.  A suburban revolt in 818 saw the destruction of the said suburb, but the place waxed to maybe 160,000 people. Manufacturing boomed, with leather, metal work, glazed tiles and textiles as well as flax and silk were foundations of prosperity. Over eighty libraries and institutions of learning were established.  At some point the library had 200,000 books.

The History is rich and not always peaceful. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umayyad_state_of_C%C3%B3rdoba   11th century Cordoba was effectively a city state of about 650,000 souls. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taifa_of_C%C3%B3rdoba  Civil Wars weakened the Muslim south and Ferdinand III entered the city in 1236.

We have a short walk along the river .  We are touching the bridge across from the Mosque-Cathedral. At our end is the Torre de la Calahorra. 

https://www.torrecalahorra.es/    Four months ago Alam summed it up nicely. ‘Torre de la Calahorra – A small but meaningful stop in Córdoba

A lovely historic landmark at the end of the Roman Bridge, the Torre de la Calahorra offers a short yet insightful visit into Córdoba’s multicultural past. The museum inside is simple but informative, highlighting the coexistence of Muslim, Christian, and Jewish cultures that shaped the city.

The views from the tower over the Roman Bridge, the Guadalquivir River, and the Mezquita are especially beautiful and well worth capturing in photos, particularly around sunset. It’s not a long visit, but it adds valuable historical context and makes for a great pause while exploring the old city.

I’d recommend combining it with a walk across the Roman Bridge and nearby old town rather than planning it as a standalone attraction. A small entrance fee, a peaceful atmosphere, and excellent photo opportunities make it a worthwhile stop during your time in Córdoba ‘

We are going to end the day in the Parque de Miraflores.  People seem to like it, with 4.4 stars. Hanna is one of the few recent writers to go beyond a half sentence.  ‘A spacious and well-maintained park offering plenty of rest areas and spaces to enjoy the outdoors. The facilities are good, with children's play areas and large lawns. It's clearly well-kept and has ample vegetation providing shade. It's an ideal place to spend a relaxing afternoon, play sports, or simply take a stroll. Highly recommended for the whole family. ‘