High Viz Peril among the crispy black pudding and scattered rosemary

We are off on the road to Medina Sidonia. If you have any decency about you you will be thinking of the Duke.  We’ll do him tomorrow. Today we are heading for a hill top village. I expect, if you were that near to a somewhat tetchy coast you would wish to be on a hill top as well.



Currently 11.838 people live here.  The Romans had been here since the 3rd century BC and around the 1st AD they rebuilt the urban centre. The Visigoths made it a provincial capital and built a cathedral. The Moors continued the whole capital bit and the Normans sacked it. I have been trying to find out about this Norman thing. I have not been successful - however I now know about the Norman involvement in Crusading activity in Catalonia in 1064. The Dukes of Medina Sidonia got the place in 1440.


Population wise 10,000-12,000 seems to be where the place is comfortable. The 10,534 of 1842 rose to around 12000 in the 1850s, dipped a little till the 1920s, dipped again then rose to almost 17000 in 1960 and seems to have been declining since. Democracy returned and with it the POSE. They held the mayoral post till 2015. Since then the United Left has been Grand Fromage. The current mayor is José Manuel Ruiz Alvarado. The POSE got 40.3% and United Left got 38% - and 7 councillors. The PP got   17.5% and 3 seats.


We are just a bit early for the Corpus Christi procession.  A 16th century silver monstrance and a float, with our Lady of Peace, wander around the streets.  Balconies are adorned with mantillas and shawls, coloured salts are laid in the street, rosemary scattered and first communions had.


We are passing the Restaurante Venta La Duquesa. Google declares it an Andalusian restaurant and over 2487 have reviewed it.  https://www.ventaladuquesa.com/la-carta/  A mere four hours ago Rocio reckoned ‘Excellent place to eat, very good quality and exquisite service. We'll definitely be back!’  liana felt ‘The crispy black pudding was the best part for me.’ A month has gone since Pedro declared ‘I can't pass through Medina on my way to Sancti Petri without stopping here. Everything is delicious, and the staff and their service are excellent. True professionals who enjoy serving their customers. Yesterday I worked at the bar. Incredible, as always. Among other things, we had grilled cuttlefish that was so good I could have stayed there forever. Oh, and a generous portion of sherry consommé that was good enough to raise the dead. Venta La Duquesa is a must-visit. Good people and good food.’  I wonder if he has.

We are passing under the Castillo de Medina Sidonia.  https://www.turismomedinasidonia.es/ As it is the top of the hill everyone built up here, especially the Romans.  Today’s ruins largely date from the 14th century.  It was still a useful enough place for the French to occupy it between 1810-1812, during their time trying to take Cadiz.

We are going through a place where, you feel, the last fifty years has seen extensive tidying and generally making neat and so the streets have become ordered. This does not preclude it having a decent looking ferretaria Azocarrem.  Nimes liked it. ‘Excellent service and customer care! I had a funny experience: one time I went to one store and was served by a different woman, and when I went to the other... it was the same woman! And it turned out they were twins! A fantastic hardware store and great people. Medina is a great town.’


We will nip under the archway and into the Plaza de Espana, passing the town hall.  https://www.medinasidonia.es/ The site is well worth looking at as it is has some rather spectacular photos.  As town halls go it does get 4.2 stars - which for the municipal nature of things is good.  I have to share Darren’s seven year old review [one star] just because of its fullness and, I suspect, it won’t put you off visiting.


‘A beautiful town with magnificent historical buildings and views that we were able to find courtesy of the towns tourist information office who were informative and helpful.  What a shame that the town (and our visit) is let down by a petty criminal wreaking havoc in the car parks!!!  Demanded 2 or 3 euros (no ticket given but wears a hi viz vest) from us when we arrived and nail in the car tyre when we returned.........  He was keen (very) to help me change it but for more euros. It is a disgrace that the local authorities permit this to continue knowing who the culprit is and what he is doing, just found a review from December 17 with similar circumstances.  Strongly suggest you avoid visiting otherwise it will cost you time, money & hassel!!’


Well, out of town we go and into the countryside.







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