In search of the mythic chipmunk and other rabbit holes

 We are going for a walk through Malaga today. It is the real city centre experience - packed through with shops, people and a mildly confusing directions. I remember Burgos had such a thing that you felt you were going one way and small changes lead to a ninety degree misdirect.  Anyway, back to Malaga.

Malaga has a population of nearly 600,000 people, making it the second largest city in Andalusia and 6th in the county. According to the sort of people who make it their business to know this kind of thing the Phoenicians turned up in 770BC and felt this river mouthed place would make a jolly decent town. From the 6th century before our Lord and Saviour the Carthaginians popped up till, in 218BC, the Romans Romaized the place.  Fast forward through Visigoths and Moors to 1487, when Castile took the place and, as a kingdom that was founded in 1065, conveniently tacked on another 350 years and announced it has reconquered the place.

We have lots of Malaga to do and a lot of stuff to know so we will end with the 1704 Battle of Malaga - where an Anglo-Dutch Fleet took on one of the French and Pro-Bourbon Spaniards.  It was bloody, about 2300 men killed and 3400 wounded but neither side lost a ship and, while inconclusive, the Anglo-Dutch had managed to counter the French threat to the region.

A quick rabbit hole. The chap commanding the English ships was Sir George Rooke.  Other naval chaps get named dropped with ease but Rooke tends to get overlooked from the commonplace monologues.  Rooke was born in Canterbury in 1650 and fought in the Third Anglo-Dutch War. He conveyed William III to Blighty in 1688 and destroyed the Spanish treasure fleet at the Battle of Vigo Bay in 1702. He commanded the naval section that captured Gibraltar in 1704. Bad health caused his retirement from the navy in 1705 and from Parliament in 1708. He died on 24th January 1709.

We are wandering passed Santa Iglesia Catedral Basílica de la Encarnación de Málaga.  It has all the twiddly bits that you would expect from the Baroque piece of work and, in these modern times, gets 4.6 stars from almost 35,000 reviews.   https://malagacatedral.com/  Work began in 1528 and some think it was complete in 1782. They site was the location of the Aljama Mosque.  To pay for it [after 1714] a tax was imposed on every ship docking at Malaga.  Apparently a plaque exists which says the Parish raised funds to pay for the Spanish Contribution to the War of American Independence. Inside are several works of art including a somewhat camp ‘Beheading of Saint Paul’, done by Enrique Simonet in 1887.

I usually go for the most recent reviews but I am going to click on one of the common words and see what happens. Actually, the top 5 words are audio guides [787], mosque [102], choir stalls [65], renaissance architecture [51] and 1528 [45]. I think we will go for 1528. 

C Khan does us proud.  ‘Located in Málaga, southern Spain, the Cathedral of Málaga is a Roman Catholic Church that epitomizes Renaissance architectural tradition, with a construction period spanning from 1528 to 1782. A notable feature of the cathedral is its façade, which, unlike the rest of the building, displays a Baroque style, comprising two levels, with three arches on the lower level, separating portals adorned with marble columns.

Malaga's Cathedral, affectionately known as "La Manquita" or "the one-armed lady" by locals, features an unfinished main facade and south tower.

A respectful dress code is encouraged, excluding shorts, tank tops, and beachwear. While photography is allowed, flash photography is prohibited.

Admission to the Cathedral of Malaga is free for certain groups, including citizens or residents of the city, people with disabilities, and children under 13 years of age. The standard entrance fee for the Cathedral is €8, the combined ticket for the Cathedral and roofs costs €12, and admission to only the roofs is €8.

Allow approximately one hour to tour the cathedral with the audio guide, and factor in an additional hour for the combined entrance that includes access to the roof. This remarkable Spanish cathedral is a must-visit attraction, renowned for its stunning architectural presence and breathtakingly beautiful interior, which will undoubtedly create lifelong memories for visitors.’

We will edge the Plaza de la Constitucion .  Marcus gave it five stars.  ‘Strolling through these narrow streets at night and in winter is not to be missed... they are safe, full of shops, bars, restaurants and terraces for dinner, drinks or coffee - an ideal time compared to the impassable summer’

We will end in Calle Mosquera.  We are over the road from the Restaurante Arte in farina.  They do pizzas.  They are LGBTQ+ friendly.  They closed.  They will be closed again tomorrow.  These hours are at the time of writing [February].  Maybe they will be open at the time of reading [April.]  A month ago Raimondo wrote ‘Great location, professional and super friendly staff, excellent pizza in the best Italian tradition!’

Raimondo. Ok 70s flashback.  Didn’t Jimmy Young have a chipmunk called Raimondo who asked ‘what’s the recipe today Jim?’  I have looked. I have searched.  Even AI couldn’t help.  Tomorrow we eat cheap and fast.