Bones and the Motherhouse

 This is going to be an odd day.  We begin with a walk in somewhere which feels so rural, empty and peaceful.  We then sink into the valleys around Granada, with houses packed into every available space and even unavailable spaces.

So, here we are, minding our own business, looking are Spring spread its tendrils across the landscape and then a huge building hives into view on our left.   It is the Abadía del Sacromonte and we are approaching it from the least impressive angle.  It has history, as you will expect.

Picture the scene. It is 1595.  The Counter-Reformation is doing its bit and things are a bit sharp in Europe. People are wandering around looking at things and in the Sacromonte area of Granada some chaps found some bones.  These were declared to be those of Saint Caecilius.  Who he? I hear you say, you ungodly wretches.  Apparently he was one of the seven fellows ordained in Rome by Saint Peter and Paul and sent to Spain to Spread the word. He came to Granada and became its first Bishop.  According to tradition he was burned to death during Nero’s reign. His bones were discovered in some Roman-era kilns.  People got excited. About 1200 religious guilds were created to honour him and various chapels were made. In the 17th century this abbey was begun, with the relics at the core of it.

Two weeks ago Pedalwerk summed it all up and wrote ‘The abbey of the sacrament is a worthwhile excursion when visiting Granada. It is 30-40 minute walk from the central plaza on a very scenic route overlooking the river Darro, and the C34 bus stops very close to the summit (good for those less able to climb the hill). It is reasonably priced for what it is. The museum exhibits are really good, with mostly original artefacts and a great audio guide to go with them. The caves (where the lead books, that spurred the founding of the abbey, were found) were also fascinating. The abbey has a great example of a Baroque-style Spanish church.’

At this point we suddenly find ourselves among the white houses and crowded streets.  We are in the world of flamenco and we will have to do something about it at sometime. We are walking by the Zambra Maria la Canastera. It is a flamenco theatre.  https://www.marialacanastera.com/   In terms of internal decoration the place is off the gilt, glam and crowd variety.  Lucy reckoned ‘Very intimate and special flamenco experience in a cave. I emailed in advance for reservations and arrived early to get a closer spot. The show was really great and included a drink as well. They do speak basic conversational English which was really helpful. Great atmosphere with live music and amazing dancers. Note they are cash only! Overall experience - would recommend!’

We are in the street of a thousand Flamenco joints.  Too many to go into.  We are also near a ‘Traditional Spanish Cave’. I think we’ve done that. Maybe we need an ultra modern one.

Translations are somewhat wonderful things.  The ‘Hail Mary Motherhouse’ does sound like some kind of biker club or interesting type of low drinking dive.  The Ave Maria Casa Madre Academy deserves better than this.  https://casamadre.amgr.es/  There were no reviews.

We end the day wandering around at the foot of the palaces and the like that crown the hills round here.