Amid the alleys and the memories

Today is a bit of a vibes day - but we will come to that later. There are so many historic things on the way down from the Alhambra you feel some of them should be lent out to less fortunate towns. Take the Pilar de Carlos V.  A mere 85 people reviewed it. It is a decent enough ornate fountain and I’m sure would be treasured and loved elsewhere.

Anna loved it.  Six months ago she wrote ‘ The Pilar de Carlos V is a hidden gem tucked beside the Alhambra’s Gate of Justice—a stunning Renaissance fountain that’s easy to miss but worth a closer look! Its intricate design, with three figureheads symbolizing Granada’s rivers (or perhaps seasons, depending on who you ask), is a beautiful blend of art and history. The carved medallions depicting mythological scenes add a layer of storytelling to this spot.  Visit early to avoid crowds and take a moment to appreciate the details the imperial coat of arms and Hercules’ columns are a real treat! Perfect for a quick stop while exploring the Alhambra; bring your camera for some great shots. Free to visit, and it’s right on the path to the Nasrid Palaces.’

Down we go, passed the Cruz devocional and the Cruz del Artillero Leandro Palencia and La Alborea Souvenirs Granda.  Then a quick turn, along some back allies and out to the River Darro and into the depths of memory.

We came to stay here about twenty years ago. The accommodation was cheap and on the Alhambra side of the river. The son and heir had got to the age where he didn’t happily join his parents in a siesta and needed to be attended to when awake.  We took it in turns.  Think of an perfect April day, warm, still, not hot. Everything was quiet as this part of the city slept. I can’t remember if I carried him in his backpack or on my shoulders.  We crossed the Darro, walked down a bit and walked up one of the really narrow lanes. I wished I could find that route. It was twenty years and I think money has spread over this hilly neighbourhood. Half way up the hill we stopped and moments later flamenco started. It was a perfect moment, the warmth, the stillness, the sound of the dance being practiced.  Of course, there is only so long a toddler wants to embrace perfection. We moved on.

Up the hill and turn left down amid the narrow roads towards the cathedral.  Sometimes you need to be young and wide-eyed and not old an cynical to get the most from what life has to offer. Welcome to the land of Medjeval Souk - well, a collection of shops selling carpets, boxes and fabrics of all sorts, all with the smell of joss sticks perfuming the air. Best not to ask where these artisanally crafted pieces of memories were made, just buy a leather bag, which can remain lodged in a history for the times you don’t ache after small amounts of exercise and merely looking at a cake adds kilos. It is to enjoyed for itself.  We will move on.

We end the day at the Capilla Real de Granada.  This solid block of Catholic architecture was constructed between 1505 and 1517. It was originally part of a complex linked with the neighbouring cathedral.  Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand, the Catholic Monarchs were buried there - well, you would considering all the fuss you’d made invading the place and having this built.  They are not alone.  Jonna of Castile, aka Joan the Mad and her bubby, Philip I are mostly buried here.  Phil’s heart is in Bruges.

Over 15000 people gave this place 4.6 stars.  Yesterday Yoland reckoned it was worth four stars of happiness can be had. Its ‘Renaissance charm in every corner; the app-guided tour is perfect for children (free entry for children under 12), although it's a shame you can't take photos or videos to remember it by. 🤯’

Tomorrow we plunge into the city.