The accidental death of a bishopric

 We are heading into Baza. In 2003 21,000 people lived here. It is a dead diocese. 

I have a slight problem with the term ‘Reconquest.’ It sort of suggests that the Islamic Invasion of Spain was just that, an Invasion.  A couple of years later the plucky chaps from Asturias have nipped down, everyone is RC again and all the better for it. Even if you ignore the fact that these parts of the world had had a different religion for 700 years.  700 years ago Edward II was trying to patch up his relationship with his misses and the damn weather was the thing that people worried about killing large percentages of the population, not the Black Death. 700 years changes people. 



 I am of an age when I am getting memes saying how good the olde dayes were - playing out, games of conkers, much higher rates of violence death on the road and comedians wondering if they’ve been cancelled or just the taste of things has moved on. I suppose, with music, it is more instant and more noticeable.  I think Noddy Holder remarked on coming back from an out of country tour and finding tastes had changed.  Anyway, let us keep on culturally appropriating from the past and wander into Baza.

Baza was lots of things in the past, including a Roman Settlement.  At some point, by 306, it had a Bishop. He went along to the Council of Elvira to mull over church matters.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synod_of_Elvira   Various bishops did bishopy things until the Moorish invasion - at which point nothing happened.  Well, not till later.  Maybe the Bishops were being errant and friendly to their new rulers, maybe they just gave up.  Either way, no bishops till 1306, when they were restored.  In 1492, when the last Islamic ruler packed up the Baza Bishopric was united with the lands of the diocese of Acci to create a new see at Guadix.  There was an upset.  The locals were not happy.  Until 1851 the diocese was called Guadix-Baza and the church was called a collegiate church.  Then the authorities said stuff you. The building in Baza became a mere parish church and the Bishop was of Guadix alone.


Fast forward to 1969. Baza was back-ish. The title, Bishop of Baza, was restored, but not the diocese itself. The current chap is Benedek Szabolcs Fekete. He is 48 and is from Hungary. 


Among the many things of religious heritage are the Banos Arabes de Baza. https://www.juntadeandalucia.es/cultura/enclaves/enclave-monumental-banos-arabes-de-baza  These baths date back to the 13th century and were rediscovered in the 19th century.  The are open from 11.00-2.00 and 6.00-8.00 in the summer and close an hour earlier in the winter.  Naser liked it ‘Definitely worth the visit. Old historical building which gives you glimpse into the life of the local Arabs who lived here over 500 years ago. The placed has been well preserved too.’  A month ago A Herrera came with a warning you will be grateful for if you read this far.  ‘Very interesting place with very correct and useful audiovisual information. Free visit. Exceptional state of conservation to understand the liturgy of the Arab baths. ATTENTION! DO NOT pay attention to the Google Maps schedules. In November it says that it opens on Sundays from 6 to 8 pm. And it is NOT true! It is summer time! We arrived at 5.45 and only had 15 minutes to visit it because it closes at 6 pm!.  Luckily it is not a very large monument. Check the official website of monuments of the Junta de Andalucia where all the correct schedules are listed.


Seasoned travelers will know that any time table for a Spanish regional museum isn’t a statement of fact, but a basis to open negotiations. With that in mind will be pop over the road, duck down a side street and visit the Museo Arquelogico de Baza.  https://www.museoarqueologicobaza.es/


Keren was intrigued and sums it all up ‘We went especially to see the replica of the life-size "Dama de Baza", excavated locally sitting on her throne. Helpful reception staff. Great video setting the local scene geologically, then working room by room through neolithic, Iron age, Roman, Moorish & Medieval to conclude with an impassioned video of the local Fiesta de Cascamorras - where hundreds of people cover themselves with oil and run down into Baza re-enacting a 500 year old historical incident! The perfect local museum…’

The Dama de Baza is a 4th century BC Iberian sculpture. She was found in 1971 on the sites we visited yesterday. She is seated in an armchair and the open sides of the piece were thought to contain cremation ashes. She is 1.335 m high and 1.08m wide.


So we will wander a bit more among the narrow streets and so end the day.























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