EVERYTHING!!!’
You can’t beat a good bit of geography, it really adds tone to a city. York is enhanced by its river, Toledo is magnificent because of its hill. London’s heights are more subtle and for the contourly aware. Sastago is squeezed between the Ebro’s loving arms. Consequently the A-221 follows the same narrow way that weary travellers have for centuries. The consequences of this are obvious. As the new Spaniards look for space for their family, and probably as important, car, these houses become less desired and less lived in.
Just off the road is the Panaderia Ordovas. This bakery open at 9 and closes at 2 every day but sundays. People seem to like it - 4.9 stars from 25 reviews. Seven months ago Claudia said ‘Gre’at variety of homemade products. Very good quality in all their preparations. Unbeatable customer service. A family business that takes 100% customer service Two years ago Sergio reckoned ‘Great bakers and pastry chefs, the best bread I have ever eaten and will ever eat. Their muffins are brutal, also their folded cakes, chocolatiers... EVERYTHING!!!’ Into every life a little rain must fall, In this case it is the light drizzle. The lowest score came six years ago Miguel gave three stars. Polite as ever, the owner thanked them for their score.
We pass the neat little horticultural plots to the south of us and, at the east end of the town, the houses suddenly disperse and there is space. There is also a Cepsa service station. I have a softspot for Cepsa, mostly because of the roadmaps they produce and were a must in the age before Googlemaps. This service station is busiests in the morning. It gets 4.5 stars and Chato said ‘We filled up with super diesel here and we didn't even have to do it ourselves. A friendly young lady filled the motorhome tanks for us. Very friendly and also very inexpensive. If I come here again, I will definitely visit this gas station again.’
We cross the river and move from the green fields and tight houses to a blasted heath. Above the bridge is the Atalaya El tambor. This blockhouse was made during the Third Carlist War [1875] and was part of 45 towers which made the clacks system from Zaragoza to Amposta. To quote the town’s website ‘It is an enclosure with an irregular, pentagonal floor plan, built in plastered masonry, with lines of loopholes in its walls, and with defensive bastions and sentry boxes at the corners of the irregular polygon. The entrance is preceded by a moat and is reached by a straight path between two walls, creating an elbow-shaped access for defensive purposes, which was flanked by two rectangular rooms with sentry boxes at their ends.’
And so we end.
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