Untold stories and spiritual benefits
One of the 1970s stereotypes of the Japanese tourist was that of the ever smiling, never talking chap who endlessly took photographs and were generally in a state of wonderment about the ordinary and everyday. Having been in northern Spain in a place distant from the world of the tourist and generally been intrigued by everything I have attempted to emulate that stereotype on several occasions. You can’t speak, unless someone needs to know you have a pen [Yo tengo un boligrafo - in case you needed to know] but you can look. On one occasion I started to compose a Mediaeval Murder mystery. Basically it was set on the Camino. Pilgrims were being bumped off. The story teller was a page, his master someone had served in the last campaign against Andalucia. The murders were connected to the betrayal of the Duke of Buckingham in 1483. Luckily I didn’t pursue because the world was not to suffer yet another hamfisted attempted murder. None of this has anything to do with today other than we seem to be packed full of pilgrims on the route. Given they have to walk a minimum 100km or cycle 200km to get the spiritual benefits and all the routes are coming together it should be no surprise that, being less than 100km out, the route is packed with pilgrims and the places that want to sell them refreshment.
First stop is the Albergue La Fuente del Peregrino. https://lafuentedelperegrino.com/en/
Manuela Nerini was not happy. She has given 11 reviews and been from 1 to 5stars. She said ‘Donative with unhospitable hospitaleros. They refused to let me sleep because I arrived too early (12.30) and they had to leave those remaining places to any other pilgrims who would arrive in the evening. Ways that are not very pleasant and outside the philosophy of the journey.’ Paul Mooij gave the opposite view ‘This is a donnativa with an very good host and good volunteers. They gave me the best pilgrim experience. They played a game to get to know each other better and really works. I did the camino in 51 days so I stayed in many Albergues and can compare a bit. Not so commercial but people that are really passionate.’
Onwards! Onwards to lunch at A paso de formiga. https://apasodeformiga.com/en/inicio-english/
They are offering coffee and homemade food. Tomorrow, a settlement of over 3000 people.
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