The dash for Galicia

Today is the second day of the dash for Galaicia and via a very slow internet connection so the actual clicking from streetview to streetview seems like it will take longer than the actual walk.. Seasoned northern Iberian travellers will recognise the route - a road cut through the only possible route, with houses grimly clinging on to the road’s edge while a superb motorway snakes around somewhere in the blue sky beyond. In deference to the increasingly wet climate a river will make itself known and the windowed in balconies will afford the chance to get light without damp. There are so many small hamlets, scattered every couple of kilometeres we won't have time to talk about them all but there will be a lot of photos.


The Rio Valcarce will be our friend and we cross it so many times - each with its accompanying notice, that you do wonder who got the contract to provide the signage The first village we bypass is Trabadelo - which makes a lively living from the pilgrims. About 340 people live here and, given its location, the Romans were here and looking for gold. It peaked in 1857 with over 2300 inhabitants This continued to be the state of affairs until 1940 when it began to plummet as livestock lost its importance. Chestnuts are still a thing.


Spanish roads across the wasteness still hang onto hotels from an age where travel was slower and less convenient. The Hotel Valcarce still seems to provide food for truck drivers and well as beds for pilgrims. A bedroom for two would cost £51 tonight. Https://hotelvalcarcecaminodesantiago.es/ It gets 4.1 from over 1000 reviews Two weeks ago Robe was not impressed with the food. ‘We ordered a loin sandwich with bacon cheese, the bacon with an inedible crust, and the loin the same with all the nerves, they forgot the cheese, they gave it to us after we asked for it, a taco of cheese larger than the slices of loin, cut with knife and cold.’ Could be a cultural thing. Laura was happier. ‘I stopped there all my life in the middle of the road to Galicia and we always liked it. A few days ago we had to stay with our children and we were very comfortable. The spacious rooms, with all the services and we had a wonderful rest. The cafeteria was good and we liked the restaurant a lot, a very complete 15 euro menu.’ Once again I urge to to go to find out the truth of it for yourself.




Vega de Valcarce and its surrounding villages went from 4000 people in 1940 to 560 today. La Treita has a wiki page but no people https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Treita Nearby is Sarrachin Castle. One of those make a flat bit on a peak and bung some solid masonry on it type. It is thought it may have been the site of an early fort. The Islamic Conquerors seemed to have built here in 714 and it was reworked till the 14th century.


Lets end on a high. Just before we complete the day we near the Paradiso del Bierzo. A 4-star and 4.5 star rated hotel a month ago Hector wrote ‘The place is super nice and pleasant. Surrounded by nature and tranquility. They are very nice. You can park next to the house in its own parking lot. They also have a restaurant that is very well served and with delicious tapas and portions.’ http://www.paraisodelbierzo.com/ Visit the website. It has nice pictures.





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