Pump up the... pace

 A decision has been made. We are to arrive in Compostela on the equinox. To that end some longer walks need to be achieved.A few extensions and maybe a second stroll in the day may occur.



We begin the day returning to the N-VI near the Cupa Stone company. https://www.cupastone.es/ Both reviews are 5 star and 5 years old. Should you require stone you have come to the right place. The N-VI follows the old route through the hills and the A-6 is also crammed into the space. It will be our constant companion.




We are in the Bierzo region. We are on the borders with Galacia and the Galician language is spoken here. The region used to be dependent on mining. Today tourism, wine, wind power and slate extraction serves as the chief providers of wealth. We are entering Villafranca de Bierzo. The Guardia Civil have an outpost here and it gets 4, 5 stars ratings. Braulio Minguez said of them [4 years ago]

As a pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago by bicycle, I was excited to have a Civil Guard seal on my credentials. Not only did they seal it for me, they opened the doors wide for us and made us feel at home. The guard at the doors was a very friendly young man who showed us the way very well. Greetings from Zaragoza and good service.






The town, like so many, has seen a decline. A steady 4500 souls suddenly shot up to 6670 in 1970 and then declined to 2800. As a major passing place it is stuffed with places of worship/ The Cluniac got here and left an Early Modern Monastery. Local saints days include Santo Tirso’s day on 28th January and San Blas’ day - 3rd February.




We will wander round the narrow streets and cross the Rio Burbia twice. On the second occasion we might as well call in at La Kabila. Guenther Moller enthused three months ago… ‘This is an excellent place right on the Camino for breakfast or lunch. The service is great and the prices are reasonable. Don't forget to sign your name on the "Wall of Peregrinos" inside the restaurant.’



Onwards, onwards, up the Valcarce valley. Sometimes the road is almost clinging to the cliffs. Pereje is a tiny place which has a row of ruined houses now squashed by the road and its traffic. In the Middle Ages the place had a pilgrims hospital. A place to stay remains.




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