Ponferrada: bakeries and the knights of the Temple
Fans of spot heights may wish to know we are wandering just above 500m above sea level. We are going passed a lot of Ponferrada, a lot of it part of the older town, so we are going to have to pick and choose where we stop.
First things first, Ponferrada is one of those places which has grown a lot in the last 7 years. It grew a bit in the 19th century, going from about 4000 to 7500. It had managed to edge to 13000 in 1940 and then rocketed to 68000 by 2011. Its origins are a bit more military. The first bridge we will cross is the one over the Boeza. Nearby is a guarding fort, built by Phillip II, replacing earlier Roman and Medieval structures. https://www.castillaleon.blog/leon/ponferrada/castillo-de-san-blas-ponferrada/
We are passing so many bars that we will be spoilt for choice. Moa the Bakery https://www.moathebakery.com/ Your toast can be covered with York ham. Cream cheese and avocado for 5.80. Cured meat with mozzarella and spouts for 7. Porridge with walnuts and strawberries is 5.60. Two weeks ago Eva Gejo gave it 5 stars because…Very good product, simple menu but that encompasses a lot. Good service and cozy place although it felt a bit cold. Price is somewhat high, understandable since basic gluten-free products are always more expensive.
Just down the road is the ArcodelCenador. The Menu del dia is 14 euros in the week and 16 on Saturdays. I recommend you look at the menu.
We end the day crossing the bridge and following the river. Above us is the castle. Ferdinand II of Leon was a bit keen on repopulation and in 1180 gave the Templars a charter to repopulate the towns and they began to build a fort in 1187. When the Order was being closed down by various monarchs with an eye to a quick buck the Leonese Master of the Temple handed the castle over to the brother of the Castillian king. From 1850, a period of decline began for the castle: the City Council sold the walls and used their stones to build public stables and a market attached to the walls, rented the interior as a pasture area, and even allowed its grading to locate a soccer field. Finally, in 1924, it was granted the status of National Monument , which stopped its deterioration.
That's it for today. More new Ponferrada tomorrow.
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