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If not Madrid, then Germany.

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  Whoops. Wrong turn, back we go and out into the suburbs of Jerez.   We are going past a restaurante, Tuga by name, and it has 4.9 stars from 678 reviews so I think we really must allowed to indulge a little.  It’s LGBTQ+ friendly.  The website does not seem to be owned by the cafe anymore.  Yesterday Carles wrote ‘Excellent cuisine, with superb product quality and very professional service’.  Emilia reckoned ‘An absolute delight for senses! We were incredibly lucky to be greeted personally by the owner and chef of Tuga - a welcoming and sophisticated gentleman, who also helped us choose the meals. The food is outstanding, so is the atmosphere. We cannot be more impressed and indulged. Thank you!’  We must push on. We are leaving town and crossing a blasted - well, well frazzled, health.  Along a camino de servicio.  All the stuff is going on on the other side of the A4.  Now, this A4 doesn’t have the decency to head out of London ...

Gunpowder and Good Ox-tail

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  Jerez has a Juan Carlos I avenue, and one for Queen Sofia and an IKEA.  We are going near none of them but never mind. As per, the city has a website.   https://www.jerez.es/   It informs us that this is the Year of Gastronomy in Jerez and today Tootsie is on at the theatre.  Culture trip recommends 10 traditional dishes you must try at least once.   https://theculturetrip.com/europe/spain/articles/10-traditional-dishes-from-jerez-de-la-frontera-you-need-to-try-at-least-once     I am not convinced that they have spent months on this however their are some fun bits. Of  Rabo de Toro they say ‘ Jerez , like every other major city in southern Spain, has put its own stamp on rabo de toro (stewed bull’s tail). The chunks of tail are cooked for at least three hours in water and sherry – in some recipes it’s a dark, sweet oloroso , while others favour a drier version – along with red pepper, onion, celery and garlic (elsewhere in Andalusia red w...

Deplorable, shameful, and lamentable - but with a nice castle

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  In we go to Sherry City.  First let us head to the Alcazar.  The Alcazar https://www.turismojerez.com/en/detail-tab/alcazar-de-jerez was built by the Almohads in the 12th and 13th century on the site of an 11th century gaff.  It is a bit of an odd shape but manages a gate on each side leading off to important roads in its 3 kilometres of enclosure.  It got an update in the 17th century, when a Baroque style palace was built.   The top review words are gardens, mosque and pharmacy so here we go. Gardenss - Cliff, three weeks ago, wrote ‘ The Alcázar of Jerez de la Frontera is an impressive 12th-century Almohad fortress. The Arab baths are perfectly preserved and among the most beautiful in all of Andalusia. The mosque, with its original mihrab, is an architectural gem. The gardens are a haven of peace with fountains and lush vegetation. The octagonal tower offers incredible panoramic views of the entire city. The olive oil mill and the Arab pharmacy are a...

To every action can be a disproportionate reaction

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  We are heading towards Jerez de la Frontera. I am not sure the 215,000 inhabitants will be there to welcome us or will be the stayed middle class souls who sip sherry in a moderate sort of way in conservatively furnished drawing rooms.  Having said tat the mayor, Maria Jose Garcia-Pelayo is from the PP so keep working that imagination.   Jerez had a battle in 1231.  Little is known about the conflict other than the Castilians won.   Jerez fell to Alfonso X in 1261. It grew in the way these places do, the connection to the trade with the Americas helped, as did sherry.   In 1892 the peasants revolted.  5-600 fieldworkers marched into Jerez to demand prisoner releases and economic relief. Disturbances resulted in three deaths. The Civil Guard detained 315 people. So far, so good.  What happened next was the execution for four people, fourteen life sentences and seven lesser terms. This was generally considered as harsh  - especially...

Gateway to the land of sherry and a distinguished citizen

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  We are heading towards Jerez. It is a little known fact that it was law in Britain until the 1980s for  every household in the land to maintain a bottle of sweet sherry, which was to be brought out before Christmas Dinner and a single glass shut away until the following year. Of sherry, more later. We will be passing the Canal del Guadalcacin.  It is one of the many drainage channels around here. At present, I know no other juicy facts about it. Back to sherry. Wine making appears to have come to the area, with the Phoenicians, around 1000BC. It continued, even under the Moors, as it was a useful trade good. It appears the Moors brought the process of distillation to the region and steps were taken towards the making of sherry. The Catholic Monarchs helped the link with England by abolishing export tax and then, in 1517, during Henry VIII’s Spanish dalliances, English merchants were given preferential status. Thus sherry, or sack, began to make progress in English heart...