The Road from Santiago

Today is a bit of a vibes day - but we will come to that later. There are so many historic things on the way down from the Alhambra you feel some of them should be lent out to less fortunate towns. Take the Pilar de Carlos V.  A mere 85 people reviewed it. It is a decent enough ornate fountain and I’m sure would be treasured and loved elsewhere. Anna loved it.  Six months ago she wrote ‘ The Pilar de Carlos V is a hidden gem tucked beside the Alhambra’s Gate of Justice—a stunning Renaissance fountain that’s easy to miss but worth a closer look! Its intricate design, with three figureheads symbolizing Granada’s rivers (or perhaps seasons, depending on who you ask), is a beautiful blend of art and history. The carved medallions depicting mythological scenes add a layer of storytelling to this spot.  Visit early to avoid crowds and take a moment to appreciate the details the imperial coat of arms and Hercules’ columns are a real treat! Perfect for a quick stop while explorin...

  We are off into one of the world’s great jewels, and to be honest I am not sure I am really up to doing them justice but there you go. The problem with visiting epoch making places is that you carry your own needs to them. At the opposite end of the experience from the Alhambra, going to Auschwitz has echoes of the experience. I have been there three times, all on educational duty. It has become increasing full of people and I have heard people say it lacks the experience that it should be because of that.  On the last occasion, because we took an extended tour we ended up at the back end of Birkenau, as the sun set on an azure cold day. It was silent and moving and, of course, the lack of people makes the experience other than the place we had come to visit on the first of, for so many, and good reasons. I adored the Generalife. I was rather fond of the gardens around the Alhambra. We arrived in mid April and early. We had a brief sense of relative emptiness and that is how...

  This is going to be an odd day.  We begin with a walk in somewhere which feels so rural, empty and peaceful.  We then sink into the valleys around Granada, with houses packed into every available space and even unavailable spaces. So, here we are, minding our own business, looking are Spring spread its tendrils across the landscape and then a huge building hives into view on our left.   It is the Abadía del Sacromonte and we are approaching it from the least impressive angle.  It has history, as you will expect. Picture the scene. It is 1595.  The Counter-Reformation is doing its bit and things are a bit sharp in Europe. People are wandering around looking at things and in the Sacromonte area of Granada some chaps found some bones.  These were declared to be those of Saint Caecilius.  Who he? I hear you say, you ungodly wretches.  Apparently he was one of the seven fellows ordained in Rome by Saint Peter and Paul and sent to Spain to Spread...