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Farewell to Mordor

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  Walking round Toledo is one of those disorientating things. With no clear vistas and streets that bend you can find yourself not quiet where you expected to be as you navigate what feels like an island - albeit lacking crashing waves and a decent fishing industry.  We are leaving the island today - but we will be back. I can’t remember where we ate but it was everything you could hope from a Spanish restaurant.  We were on small boy time so rocking up at 9pm for a meal meant the place was empty. They took one look and immediately put two chairs together so the son and heir could sleep, while his parents consumed.  It was the Taberna Artesana; La Tintilla, but we are passing it by so we will pop in and think of decades gone by. Woman owned and LGBTQ+ friendly, https://restaurante.covermanager.com/taberna-artesanal-la-tintilla/ La Tintilla gets 4.8 stars.  Three hours ago JP noticed ‘ The couple who run this place are very nice and attentive.’  John felt ‘...
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Beautiful jugs and magnificient flowerpots

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  We are wandering through the tiny lanes and occasional spaces that makes up down town Toledo.   The Museo Taller del Moro https://cultura.castillalamancha.es/museos/nuestros-museos/museo-taller-del-moro aka ‘|Workshop of the Moor’, is a 14th century palace with samples of the arts and crafts of the 14th and 15th century.  Last month Harry wrote ‘ Very similar to the Sephardic Museum, although you have the opportunity to see more Arab art embedded in its walls. It's worth it for the price. ’   Next to J. Serrano’s ceramics shop.  Oh my lord, I’m in love.  Last time we had a small boy and limited luggage.  Next time it will all be different.  https://www.ceramicajserrano.com/   Just look at the website.  Go on, treat yourself.   Two weeks ago josiane wrote ‘ An incredible selection of beautiful ceramics...jugs, dishes, magnificent flowerpots, a superb fountain, and bowls, cups, etc. - an extraordinary selection.’   L...
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This place has a huge variety of swords, knives and quality stainless steel hand made objects.. and cheese... and tapestries.. and baths.

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  I seem to remember that Toledo seemed to have two halves.  The crowded one where people lived and the big, emptier one where the hundred and one monasteries, nunneries and places of ecclesiastical power lurked - and in some cases - had been adapted.  Anywhere else the grand buildings would stand proud and free. Here it seems they are being slowly herded and nudged out of the way. The Alcazar de Toledo - wherein the military museum lives - dominates the city with its bulk and brooding presence.  As it was a Fasc hold during the Civil War the dark tower similarities work well.  The site had been a Roman Palace. In the 10th century it was turned into a fortress, during the reign of Caliph Abd ar-Rahman III.  Almost 40,000 people give it 4.6 stars, so who are we to quibble.  Two hours ago Isaac opined ‘ Very well maintained. Quite spacious. Helpful staff. We were impressed. ’ From military to the church militant. We are going to edge round Santa Iglesia ...
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A thousand days, so sodom 'em

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  We are not going far but we are going to back a lot in.  First we are reflecting we are walking up while we could have gone by escalator.  Wie Dar reports ‘ The escalators to the Old City Hill can be found by walking from the stone bridge over the Tagus River along the sidewalk to the right for about 300-400 meters. Then there are 7 or even 10 electric sections. They are a godsend for tourists with some miles under their belts. The problem is that poor signage makes them difficult to find. I've met people who walked up and were quite surprised by the escalator's existence. ’ Just round the corner is the Teatro-uditorio El Greco.  The Greek goes lance to lance with Cervantes here for attention and brush and canvas man won in this artistic space.  https://www.pctoledo.es/   Today Susana said ‘ Excellent sound and visuals. Parking right below the auditorium and very close to Plaza Zocodover. ‘  Francisco like this place. ‘ The facilities are very spaci...
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The dullness of a foggy day in Mordor

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  Toledo is steeped and crammed together and so we will take this easy.   First we will cross the Puente de Azarquiel. I’m not sure the 4.7 stars are for the perky nature of the bridge and more for the view.  I wasn’t the first person to have this thought as the first review to pop up was that of the three stars of Sveto.  ‘ An ordinary bridge for vehicles and people, below is a river with a not-so-well-maintained bank. People review the bridge reviewing the view of old town Toledo, which I think dont makes sense. ‘ We will spend today working our way up through a tiny slice of suburb which is squeezed between the road, river and walls. My memory of it, twenty years ago, was that it was it was a little tired and quite comfortable. It has a somewhat overlooked child’s park which a small boy made some use of.  It has grown and smartened itself up a bit and the Air BnB has moved in. Bar baobab seems the sort of place that will serve us well.  The most re...
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